Delancey Cardigan

Original Design by Alexis Winslow

$6 Paypal download

Standard Pattern
Bust/Hips: 33 (36, 39, 42)”
Plus Size Pattern
Bust/Hips: 45 (48, 51, 54, 58)”

The Delancey Cardigan has a vintage feel with its striking chevron stripe motif and elegant shawl collar.  Sections of thin diagonal stripes accentuate the sweater’s unusual zig-zag construction. Slanting stripes, in combination with the long sleek fit, make this a flattering design.

The body is knitted back and forth in one large piece on circular needles then divided to form the armholes. There is a seam at the top of each shoulder. Stitches for the set-in sleeves are picked up around the armhole and knitted from the top down. Stitches for the collar are also picked up along the edge, and short rows form the shawl collar.

*Note, the plus size version has a more generous fit through the arms and a slightly wider front band and collar.

Bust/Hips 33 (36, 39, 42)”, Plus size: 45 (48, 51, 54, 58)”
Length from shoulder 27 (27.5, 28, 28.5), Plus size: 28″
Find information on how to adjust the length of this pattern here.

US 8 DPN’S and ≥24 inch circular needles
DK Weight yarn 50g balls (123 yards each) in two colors: main color (MC)- 7 (8, 9, 10) balls
contrasting Color (CC)- 3 balls, all sizes
7   ¾ inch buttons
Stitch markers, stich holder, tapestry needle, thread

US 8 needles:
18 sts x 26.5 rows = 4 x 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
16 sts x ~10 rows = 4 x 4 inches in garter stitch.

Check out my video tutorial and blog post explaining how to knit “jogless” 2-row stripes in the round. You’ll find useful tips to use when you’re knitting the sleeves.

Note about errata if you purchased your pattern before September 14, 2010

Your pattern may contain some of the errors listed here:
1) All Sizes- Stripe pattern should begin on rows 30, 61, 98, 132, 166.
2) Size 33- After row 108, the stitch count should read 162 sts total.
3) Sizes 33 and 36- After row 114 on the front sides, the stitch count should read 30 (36, n/a, n/a) sts total.
4) Size 33- On the front sides, work the section beginning on row 115 to row 122, then move on to the next section on row 123.
5) All Sizes- Right and Left front sections, row 1 repeat beginning on rows 151 (153, 155, 157) should read: SSK, Knit to 2 sts before end, K2tog.
6) All Sizes- Center back section, Row 1 repeat beginning on rows 115 (115, 117, 119) should end with an additional K1.
7) All Sizes- Stripe pattern on sleeves should begin on rounds 1, 35, 69, and 103.

If you purchased your pattern before August 9, 2010:

All sizes- The second row on the first pattern repeat should end with an additional K1.


  1. Hi! I’m knitting this for the Sweatshop of Love KAL and am wondering about the row count on the panels. Do I treat the rows in green both as part of the individual rows before the striping starts? In other words, would I start the stripes after literally knitting 40 rows (shortened version)? Thank you for your help.

  2. Hi Tayler! If you’re knitting the shortened version, you’d begin your stripe pattern on row #21. This means that you’ll work the pattern (indicated in green) for 20 rows with your main color (you’ll be in the middle of your little triangles) and then you’ll switch colors as you begin to knit row #21. Use a row counter to help you keep track of your rows. The pattern progression (row 1 & row 2 indicated in green) should be pretty easy to keep track of in your head because one is worked on the wrong-side, and the other is worked on the right-side. I hope this helps!

  3. Oh man, I’m in love. Bookmarking this for when I can afford the yarn. What fiber did you use?

    The way the body pieces are on an angle so the chevron is made of horizontal stripes is so cool! I’m not sure I’ve ever seen that before. And the neckline is gorgeous.

    Are you on Kollabora, the crafting site? We have a few Alexises, but I can’t tell if any of them are you. I think our members would love your work, though!

  4. Hi Janice, great question! I have some points for you to consider:
    • If you pick a size that’s bigger than your bust, the shoulders will be too broad.
    • Because of the unusual construction of this garment, I didn’t include any waist or hip shaping in the pattern, but it’s definitely possible to add some.
    • The fabric in the main body of the cardigan is on the bias, which makes it extremely stretchy. I’m slightly pear shaped too with about a 4” difference from my bust to hips, and I have no problem buttoning my Delancey all the way to the bottom.
    • The chevron stripes are formed on the cardigan by using a series of increases and decreases over a single row. The points of the stripes are made with increases, the valleys are made with decreases.

    Okay, so with all that in mind, it would be possible to begin with a larger size, and then in the “Join Panels” section, forgo the increases in some of the rows to get to the right number of stitches for the “Divide for Armholes” section. I would do this between the sections of narrow stripes so it isn’t so obvious.

    I hope this helps! I’m not sure anyone else has tried this (at least on Ravelry).

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>