Cabled Dad Mittens

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These handsome mittens were inspired by my own father's desire for basic, yet classy cold weather gear. The pattern includes instructions to knit three unisex styles: classic mittens, fingerless mitts, and convertible gloves—choose your own adventure! Each style features a super easy cable pattern that coordinates perfectly with my Cabled Dad Hat design. The project is a quick knit worked with worsted weight yarn, but on smaller needles which produces a dense fabric to keep your hands extra warm. Directions for three sizes are included along with tips for a custom fit.



6.5 (8, 9.5)" wrist, 7 (8.5, 9.5)" palm


Worsted weight (#4 medium)
Shown Here: Magpie Domestic Worsted 100% Domestic SW Merino Wool, Tupelo Honey, Casaway, Mesa, 100g: 200 yds; 1 skein
Mitten Style: about 179 (235, 298) yards
Fingerless Mitts Style: about 152 (193, 237) yards
Convertible Gloves: about 213 (278, 356) yards


US size 5 (3.75 mm): Double pointed needle set
Adjust needle size to obtain stitch gauge.


Waste Yarn
Yarn needle
One stitch marker
Ruler or tape measure
Convertible Glove Style Only: two ¾" toggle buttons, needle and thread to sew button to glove, crochet hook to make button loop (approx size D3)


22 sts and 32 rows = 4” in Chart A (B, C) pattern


This pattern includes video tutorials that explain some of the basic techniques required for this project. To view all the Knit Darling tutorials, visit this page.



Pattern Version P2:
(page 5 on the pdf or page 4 on the printed booklet)
Second column under the heading "Both Hands" should read:
Continue working without shaping as est. until piece measures about 11⁄2 (13⁄4, 2)” from thumb division, or 1⁄4” shorter than desired hand length, removing m on last rnd. Knit one rnd.


Q: Can I easily modify this pattern to make tip-less finger gloves without a mitten flap?

A: Yes, you can easily modify the pattern to not include the flap. It would involve skipping around a bit in the instructions, but it's fairly straightforward.

Under the section titled "Divide for Thumb" section, work the first subsection titled, "All Style:", then work the first four rounds of the section titled "Fingerless Mitts Style Only". Then, skip ahead to the section titled "Fingers", to the sub-section titled "Both Hands" and continue from there as directed.

Q: I am stuck at the top right of page 4. Do I cast on the stitches with the working yarn or attach another piece? Am I to leave the marked stitches for fingers on the needles with waste yarn and work those stitches along with the cast on ones?

A: Yes, you should cast on stitches for the inner mitten flap (palm side) using the working yarn. I recommend the slip-knot cast-on method for this. I have a video here on my website if you are unfamiliar with this technique. As for the waste yarn, this is called a "life line". I'm not sure if you saw the "Notes" section in the pattern—I explain this technique briefly there but I'm happy to expand on it for you. Look carefully at the illustration on page 4—you will see that the waste yarn goes through each stitch on two of the needles. On the next round, you will ignore the waste yarn and work the stitches normally, being very careful NOT to work the waste yarn together with the stitch. The result will be a piece of waste yarn that marks a single row of stitches at a certain point. In this case, the purpose of these marked stitches is to make it much easier to pick up stitches inside the mitten flap later on when you make the fingers. At that point, you will simply slip a needle into each of the marked stitches.

Q: I'm starting the cuffs and I'm confused about how to work the chart. Do I work the Row 1 from the chart over the first two rounds, then progress with the chart normally?

A: No, you will repeat Row 1 from the chart two times over the first Round. You will always work the chart pattern twice on every round. So, on the first round you will work the 18 (22, 26) stitch pattern shown on row 1 of the chart, then you will repeat those same 18 (22, 26) stitches from row 1 again—hence the instructions to work the chart two times. Round 2 will go in a similar fashion-- work the 18 (22, 26) stitches from row 2 on the chart two times over the round. And for Round 3, work the 18 (22, 26) stitches from row 3 of the chart two times. And so on until you get to Round 5, when you'll start over on the chart with Row 1. The row/round progression is: 1, 2, 3, 4; 1, 2, 3, 4; etc.

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