Reine Cardigan

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The design features a reversible cable edging, slanted patch pockets, and garter stitch details. The main part of the cardigan is knitted in one flat piece from the bottom up, then the sleeves are worked circularly from the top down. There is one seam that runs across the back of the shoulder which adds structure, preventing the shoulders from sagging.



1100 (1220, 1325, 1450, 1570, 1700, 1845) yards of fingering weight wool yarn
4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) skeins of Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% American Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yards/50g) Photographed in color "Postcard"


Working Gauge: 23 stitches & 35 rows = 4" in Stockinette Stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS) with Gauge Needle; before blocking

Finished Gauge: 21¼ stitches & 32½ rows = 4" in Stockinette Stitch with Gauge Needle; measurement taken from relaxed fabric after wet-blocking


One 32" circular needle and a set of double pointed needles (DPNs) in size needed to obtain gauge
Suggested Size: 4mm (US 6)


30 (33¾, 37½, 41¼, 45, 48¾, 52½)" finished garment at bust (buttoned & blocked)
Intended Ease: +0-2"
Sample is size 33¾ with +1¾" ease on model



1 5 July 2012 (Version 2.0): In “Right Front” and “Left Front” sections, when specific sizes are listed to work instructions individually, the pattern originally listed the sizes as: “Sizes – (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56) only”; the sizes should instead be listed as “Sizes – (33¾, 37½, 41¼, 45, 48¾, 52½) only”.

The “Attach Pockets” instructions in the Finishing section were accidentally omitted. The following instructions have been added: ”Position the pockets on the fronts of the cardigan, centering each pocket left to right, and aligning the bottom edge of the pocket with the bottom edge of the cardigan. Using your tapestry needle and mattress stitch, sew the sides of each pocket to the sweater. Use a running stitch to sew the bottom edge of pockets. Be careful to make sure the left and the right pockets are the same number of stitches from the center edging. Weave in all yarn ends invisibly on the WS of fabric.

2 25 July 2012 (Version 3.0): This change effects size 48.75” only: Under “Divide for Front and Back” section on page 4, the following number in the division row has been changed: “…to waste yarn or a stitch holder for underarm, work 74 (82, 90, 98, 108, 116, 126) stitches for Back, work next 4 (6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 14) stitches and transfer them to waste yarn.

Under the “BACK” Section on page 7, the first sentence has been updated to reflect this change as well: “Rejoin yarn to 74 (82, 90, 98, 108, 116, 126) Back stitches, ready to work a RS row.”

3 10 January 2013 (Version 3.2): Pages 5 and 6, the LEFT FRONT and RIGHT FRONT row counts (before “Stripe Detail and Collar Shaping Row”) have been corrected to read: 28 (28, 34, 34, 40, 40, 46) rows have been worked in this section.
Pages 5 and 6, “Repeat Collar Shaping Row” has been corrected to read “Repeat Collar Decrease Row.”


Q: Are the finished measurements in the pattern taken before or after blocking?
A: The finished measurements and the measurements in the schematic are taken after blocking.

Q: I’m in between sizes. Do you have advice about which size I should knit?
A: I’d say that’s a personal preference, but Brooklyn Tweed wrote an excellent blog post about this, and showed the cardigan on two different sized models.

Q: How do I get my shoulder seam to look as neat as it does in the picture? It looks like there was a special technique used.
A: I explain how to sew the mattress stitch on a diagonal shoulder piece like this in a short video I made “The Mattress Stitch: Sewing for Knitters”.

Q: I'm having trouble with the wrap and turn technique on the sleeve cap. What's the best way to do that?
A: Check out this video

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